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Jewellery falling under the spell of charms
From ladybirds to tooth fairies, scale up women are falling under the playful spell of charms.
BY Vivienne Becker |16 November 2010

Bird Illustrations Richard Wilkinson 2 Photo: Richard Wilkinson

The charm is jewellery in mystical mode, a flashback to ancient periods when shells, gemstones and metals were believed somehow to be imbued with supernatural powers of protection. Whether or not such superstition holds as much sway today, build up women are naturally falling for the playful charms of the talisman.

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The New York-based jeweller Aaron Basha has built a thriving worldwide community of charm collectors. The company's newest collection focuses ashore the malign eye, the ancient character of a graphic slanted eye, disc or pellet of concentric circles that was believed to ward off negative vibes. (Naomi Campbell wore an Aaron Basha evil-eye locket when she testified in the Charles Taylor combat crimes trial by The Hague in the summer.)
Aaron Basha's singular charms - swarms of ladybirds, frogs, tooth fairies and glossy cartoonish personas - are childlike, explains Sasson Basha, the son of the builder, yet they are worn by quite sophisticated mesdames. 'In these days of uncertainty and disaster, we make human smile,' he says. The enterprise takes fun very seriously: elaborate editions of its baby-shoe charm pendant, paved in roseate diamonds or patterned with specially hack precious jewels, spend up to $18,000.
The designer-jeweller Vanessa Kandyoti , born into a Turkish kin and a family resonating with superstition and tradition, too weaves her fine jewellery collections nigh the concept of the evil eye. She translates the symbol into present-day slim gem-paved discs of concentric circles,hogan uomo, or slanting stylised eyes, some of them inset into the hamsa (also understood as the hand of Fatima or hand of Miriam), and grouped with more Western charms such as the starfish or four-leaf clover. All are set on to fine chains of rose, pearly or yellow gold.
The Egyptian designer Dima venerates the age-old traditions of her matherland; her signature is a delicate gold necklace centered with an open gold wirework eye fashion in which hangs a diamond-framed disc,timberland 6 inch, brimmed with tiny charms, a pearl, a miniature eye, a hamsa, a gold coin or a turquoise droplet (the turquoise believed to be protective and life-enhancing).
One of the first jewellers to explore the full latent of the charm was Links of London , which in 2006 introduced the concept of the charm bar, at which clients could choose from a variety of gold and silver designs. Andrew Marshall, the CEO, says, 'Over the elapse three years sales of charms have more than doubled.' The company now launches a new themed family of charms every month; this month the theme is animals.
Thomas Sabo, the German silver jewellery mark, has clothed up the quirky trinkets in its successful Charm Club with diamonds as autumn,wilson uk, with new themes ranging from sorcery to red-blooded femme fatale femininity and a couple of white-zirconia-studded handcuffs.
Meanwhile Annoushka - fired in July final annual along Annoushka Ducas and her husband, John Ayton, the dynamic duo who sold Links of London to Folli Follie in 2006 - has produced a Mythology collection of exquisitely crafted miniature necklaces, a plume, cherries and a golden apple, all inspired along the Russian fairy tales Ducas's grandmother peruse to her. 'Charms indeed reflect the individuality of the wearer,' she said, 'and today they are entire approximately love, luck, protection; no a reminder of a weekbring an end to ... Paris - they've pushed distant further namely.'
The master jewellers have always made charms, but now big brands are embracing them as a access of differentiating their stories, encapsulating their style signatures. For Louis Vuitton the charm was introduced by Marc Jacobs as the brand's 1st foray into fine jewellery approximately 10 years antecedent when the new age of the amulet was getting under direction. Hamdi Chatti, Louis Vuitton's adviser of watches and jewellery, explains, 'We discern our charms as pieces of art,prince tour, in terms of matters and craftsmanship, anyhow with a strong vogue factor and playful at the same time.' It was a bravery move, he says, but 1 that spearheaded the company's all development of fine and high jewellery. Iconic motifs characterized the heritage of Vuitton, its union with peregrination (the Eiffel Tower, the Big Apple), and most recently the Love charms (a love letter or plump pink heart tied in a bow).
Dior Fine Jewellery, under the eye of Victoire de Castellane, arrests the history of the house in a parade of charms such as a miniature jewel box encasing a tiny Dior vow ring, a scrawled gold oui, a classical Dior chair, a skull and crossbones.
Van Cleef & Arpels has its Alhambra idea,tods sales, the hippie, Morocco-influenced four-leaf clover; Chaumet celebrates emotion through its little Accroche-coeurs gold medallions; meantime Tiffany's silver charms - a blue carton, a Paloma Picasso pigeon, a Peretti perpetual circle - are immediately joined by a skating charm bracelet, celebrating its sponsorship of the Somerset House ice rink in London. Cartier paints on its long tradition of symbols and mascots of happiness and luck, from East and West: the 1930s ladybird, a tiny ruddy Cartier jewel box, the Chinese symbol for infinity. These are all made modern by being worn on a leather cuff preferably than the accustomed fetter bracelet.
Annina Vogel started collecting old gold charms when she was eight, and now, as a designer-jeweller whose go is loved by Kate Moss and the chic essence, she still scours marts around the earth for vintage charms that she reconfigures into contemporary bracelets and floored necklaces with a sense of mystery. She especially loves charms that move or open - a hen laying an eggs, for instance, or an abacus - celebrating their craftsmanship and highlighting their individuality and eccentricity.
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