Tom Ford completed his triumphant 10-year reign at
Gucci with his last show of the House in Milan Wednesday, showing all the style that characterizes its mandate there.
Step large gestures or moments auto-indulgence, just a regular Ford /
Gucci show, giant shiny black invitation card, the black carpet, the vase of flowers in the lobby, the good guys in black suits used pre-show cocktails and beautiful clothing.
The show was one of his best, with a length equipped with hip-intensely complex Cup jackets, with Elizabethan style border and pleating and panels of tone fur, worn with pencil ultra-équipée skirts and pants pipe of drainage, in a wonderfully rich dark green palette, purple and aubergine.
But it was the evening dress that has brought a tear to the eye bittersweet. A green jacket in spring covered with sequins,
Gucci outlet, and topped with fur from Fox in the same colour, summarizes the ######y glamour sleekly modern that characterizes
Gucci Ford.
At the end, petals of rose fell from the ceiling that the designer took his final applause. The break with routine was when he made a break along its honour turn to embrace his partner in the long term, the Uomo Vogue editor Richard Buckley, sitting in its usual position in the first row.
It was a restraint appropriate bowing, taking into account leaves Ford due to a disagreement with the owners of the label. They wanted him to waive some of its organizing creative Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, which he designed for the
Gucci Group.
This was not negotiable for the Texas designer, which has based its success on the creation of a micro-monde managed for its brands, control everything, design store in bags, bottles of perfume and advertising images.
It was exactly the opposite in the chaos of uncontrolled licence - with umbrellas sticky Gucci in every free service for airport - the House that almost finished off in the 1980s. He revolutionized fashion branding, creation of the luxury brand mega as we understand it.
And it is this philosophy that makes Ford Milan
Gucci watch such highly anticipated events. As it ended, the public welcomed Ford, knowing that taking the relay - the murmur is a team without face - it will be never the same.
Later, there was a farewell party in the theatre, but Ford did not seem to be there.
The rumour that he had and Buckley had already left for Los Angeles and pré-Oscars preparations.
Considering that his intention is to abandon the mode for a career in film, he would have meaning.
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he would have meaning.
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