programming and human factors
by Jeff Atwood Creating a Pc, Aspect I
Over the following few days, I'll be creating Scott Hanselman's laptop or computer. My target these days is more modest: build a minimal program that boots.
I'd wish to dispel the myth that constructing pcs is risky, or in any way hard or problematic. If you're able to put collectively a LEGO kit, it is possible to put together a Pc from components. It's dead easy, like snapping jointly so many LEGO bricks. Properly, largely. Have you ever noticed how difficult several of individuals LEGO kits are?
Granted, constructing computers isn't really for everybody. There are plenty of other stuff you might wish to do together with your time, like, say, shelling out time along with your kids, or locating a cure for cancer. This is exactly why people acquire pre-assembled computers from Dell. But if you need fine-grained management more than just what's inside your Personal computer, if you need a deeper comprehension of how the hardware suits with each other and operates, then constructing a Pc is really a fun undertaking to acquire on. You can quickly match or defeat Dell's rates typically, even though building a superior rig -- and you'll find out one thing along the best way, too.
Here's the full set of components we ordered, per the element checklist. The CPU and memory boxes aren't proven, sadly, since I had already opened those from the time I took this photograph. Whoops,
Office 2007 Enterprise Key!
All you may need is often a handful of fundamental resources to create this Computer. I usually use needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, as well as a modest phillips screwdriver.
Before we get going, let me share a couple of key things I've learned whilst developing PCs:
Computer parts are surprisingly durable. They are not fragile. You don't have to baby them. So often I see individuals handle personal computer elements as if they're sacred, priceless relics. Even though I don't think you should play "catch" using your new Core 2 Quad processor, it's also not going to explode into flames in case you look at it the wrong way. You don't have to tiptoe around the build. Just be responsible and use common sense. I've done some appalling factors to personal computer hardware in my day, truly boneheaded stuff, and I think I've broken all of two or three items in the last 10 years.
The risk of static discharge is overblown. I never wear anti-static wristbands, and I've yet to electrocute any components with static electricity. Never. Not once. However, I always touch a metal surface just before handing pc components-- and that's a good habit for you to cultivate as effectively.
Be patient, and don't force it. Individuals rare times I've damaged components, it really is since I rushed myself and forced a thing that I thought should fit-- despite all the warning signs. I've learned through hard experience that "maybe I need to use lots of additional force" is never the right answer when it comes to developing PCs. Take a deep breath. Count to ten. Refer to the manual, and double-check your work.
I always create up the motherboard first. Place the motherboard on top of the anti-static bag it came in so it's easier to work on. Slot in the CPU and snap in the memory sticks. We're using four sticks here, so every slot is populated. However, if you're only using two sticks of memory, be sure they are in the correct paired slots for dual-channel operation. Should you want advice, the motherboard manual is a good reference for standard installation steps.
Continue creating up the motherboard by installing the CPU cooler. I strongly recommend buying an aftermarket CPU cooler based on a heatpipe tower design, as they wildly outperform the stock Intel coolers. This particular model we chose for Scott's develop is the Scythe Mine, but I'm also a fan of the Scythe Infinity and Scythe Ninja Plus. (It is possible to see the Ninja Plus on my work rig.)
It's important to install the CPU cooler correctly, otherwise you risk frying your CPU. Refer closely to the heatsink instructions. Don't forget to place a bit of the heatsink paste (included with the cooler) on the surface of the CPU just before installing. These larger heatsinks can be quite heavy, so be sure you've followed the installation instructions to the letter and secured it firmly to the motherboard. Check the orientation of the heatsink so the fan blows "out" if possible, e.g., towards the back of the motherboard, where the case exhaust fans usually are.
Now let's build up the case to accept the motherboard. We chose the Antec P182 case for Scott's create. This case is unique; it's a collaborative venture between the well-known case vendor Antec and Silent Laptop Review, one of my favorite Personal computer enthusiast websites.
This is the second version of the case, which reflects a number of design tweaks more than the original P180. It really is a little expensive, but the P182 oozes quality and attention to detail. It really is probably the single best designed case I've ever worked on. But don't get my word for it; see reviews at AnandTech and SilentPCReview.
Some instances are sold with power supplies, but the higher end cases, such as the P182, typically are not. For Scott's develop, we chose the Corsair HX series power supply,
Buy Office 2007 Key, which is really a rebranded and tweaked Seasonic. It can be considered one of the best quiet and efficient power supplies on the market, which is why it tops the checklist of recommended PSUs at SilentPCReview.
I opened the opposite side of the case to gain access to the PSU cage from both sides, installed the PSU in the cage, and threaded the power cables up through the opening in the middle.
If you have cats, like we do, you have curious cat helpers. Sadly, cat helpers are not all that... helpful.
Now install the backplate included with the motherboard. Every backplate is different simply because every motherboard is different. It really is held in by pressure; just snap it in firmly around the edges.
It's finally time to place the motherboard in the case. Clear room in the case compartment by moving any errant cables out of the best way and stowing them. Make sure the screw holes on the motherboard line up with the pre-installed screw mount standoffs in the case. In our P182, everything matched up perfectly out of the box.
Angle the motherboard down slowly and line up the ports to the backplate, then gently allow the motherboard down to rest against the standoffs. Loosely line up the motherboard screw holes to the motherboard standoffs.
Find the packet of screws included with the case, and use the appropriate screws to secure the motherboard to the case standoffs.
Now let's connect the power supply to the motherboard. You will find two power connectors on modern motherboards, so be sure you've connected them both. Don't worry, the connectors are keyed; you can't install them incorrectly and blow up your Computer. As it is possible to see here, I threaded the power connectors along the back side of the motherboard platform. That is one of the several nifty little design features of the P182 case.
Before we can boot up, we require to connect the power and reset switches so they work. This component is a little fiddly. Find the cable with the labelled power, reset, and LED connectors from the case, then refer to the motherboard manual to see where the appropriate motherboard front panel connector pins are.
Connect each front panel wire to the specific motherboard front panel pins individually. Make sure you connect them to the right location, but orientation of these connectors doesn't matter. This is where the needlenose pliers come in handy unless you have nimble (and tiny) fingers. Why this isn't a universally standard keyed block connector by now is beyond me.
We will need some kind of video output to see if our personal computer can boot, so let's install a video card. Scott's not a ################ gamer, so I went for something midrange, a set of two NVIDIA 8600GTS cards. They're an excellent blend of performance and the latest DX10 and high-definition features, even though using relatively little power.
Don't forget to connect the 6-pin video card power connector if your video card requires it! This is a common mistake that I've made much more than once. Our power supply has modular connectors,
Microsoft Office 2010, so I snapped in one of the two 6-pin power connectors and threaded it up to the video card.
We're ready for the moment of truth: does it boot? I attached a power cord to the power supply, hooked up a utility 15" LCD I keep around for testing, and then pressed the power button.
Success! I know "reboot and select proper boot device" doesn't look like much, but it means everything is working. We've just built a minimal Computer that boots up. It is a little step that we'll build on tomorrow.
Getting this technique from a pile of elements to bootable state took about two hours. Like I promised -- simple! Writing it up is taking almost as long as actually doing it. This was a slow build for me due to the fact I was extra cautious with Scott's parts,
Office 2010 Professional, and I was stopping to take frequent pictures. With some practice,
Windows 7 Serial Number, it's possible to build a Laptop much much more quickly-- even in under ten minutes.