programming and human factors
by Jeff Atwood Constructing a Laptop, Component I
Over the next number of days, I'll be building Scott Hanselman's laptop or computer. My goal right now is much more modest: build a minimal technique that boots.
I'd prefer to dispel the myth that creating personal computers is risky, or in any way tough or problematic. If you can put collectively a LEGO kit, you can put collectively a Computer from elements. It is dead effortless, like snapping collectively numerous LEGO bricks. Effectively, mostly. Have you ever observed how difficult several of these LEGO kits are?
Granted, constructing personal computers just isn't for everybody. You'll find lots of other things you may want to do along with your time, like, say, paying time with your young children, or finding a cure for cancer. This is exactly why folks buy pre-assembled personal computers from Dell. But if you will need fine-grained manage about just what is inside your Computer, if you want a deeper knowing of how the hardware fits together and functions, then constructing a Computer can be a entertaining task to get on. It is possible to quickly match or defeat Dell's costs in most cases, while developing a superior rig -- and you may learn a thing along the way, also.
Here's the complete set of components we ordered, for each the element list. The CPU and memory boxes aren't proven, unfortunately,
Office 2010 Home And Student Key, because I had currently opened people through the time I took this photo. Whoops!
All you will need is really a number of simple resources to construct this Pc. I generally use needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, as well as a small phillips screwdriver.
Before we begin, allow me to reveal several essential things I've discovered while constructing PCs:
Laptop or computer elements are surprisingly durable. They aren't fragile. You don't have to baby them. So often I see men and women handle pc parts as if they're sacred, priceless relics. Although I don't think you should play "catch" together with your new Core 2 Quad processor, it really is also not going to explode into flames should you look at it the wrong way. You don't have to tiptoe around the develop. Just be responsible and use common sense. I've done some appalling things to laptop or computer hardware in my day, truly boneheaded stuff, and I think I've broken all of two or three items in the last 10 years.
The risk of static discharge is overblown. I never wear anti-static wristbands, and I've yet to electrocute any components with static electricity. Never. Not once. However, I always touch a metal surface just before handing computer components-- and that's a good habit for you to cultivate as effectively.
Be patient, and don't force it. People rare times I've damaged components, it is because I rushed myself and forced some thing that I thought should fit-- despite all the warning signs. I've learned through hard experience that "maybe I will need to use lots of additional force" is never the right answer when it comes to building PCs. Consider a deep breath. Count to ten. Refer to the manual, and double-check your work.
I always develop up the motherboard first. Place the motherboard on top of the anti-static bag it came in so it is easier to work on. Slot in the CPU and snap in the memory sticks. We're using four sticks here, so every slot is populated. However, if you're only using two sticks of memory, be sure they are in the correct paired slots for dual-channel operation. In the event you need advice,
Microsoft Office 2010 Home And Business, the motherboard manual is often a good reference for fundamental installation steps.
Continue constructing up the motherboard by installing the CPU cooler. I strongly recommend buying an aftermarket CPU cooler based on a heatpipe tower design, as they wildly outperform the stock Intel coolers. This particular model we chose for Scott's develop is the Scythe Mine, but I'm also a fan of the Scythe Infinity and Scythe Ninja Plus. (You are able to see the Ninja Plus on my work rig.)
It's important to install the CPU cooler correctly, otherwise you risk frying your CPU. Refer closely to the heatsink instructions. Don't forget to place a bit of the heatsink paste (included with the cooler) on the surface of the CPU just before installing. These larger heatsinks can be quite heavy, so be sure you've followed the installation instructions to the letter and secured it firmly to the motherboard. Check the orientation of the heatsink so the fan blows "out" if possible, e.g., towards the back of the motherboard, where the case exhaust fans usually are.
Now let's construct up the case to accept the motherboard. We chose the Antec P182 case for Scott's build. This case is unique; it can be a collaborative venture between the well-known case vendor Antec and Silent Pc Review, one of my favorite Laptop enthusiast websites.
This is the second version of the case, which reflects a number of design tweaks more than the original P180. It can be a little expensive, but the P182 oozes quality and attention to detail. It really is probably the single best designed case I've ever worked on. But don't take my word for it; see reviews at AnandTech and SilentPCReview.
Some instances are sold with power supplies, but the higher end instances, such as the P182, usually are not. For Scott's develop, we chose the Corsair HX series power supply, which can be a rebranded and tweaked Seasonic. It is considered one of the best quiet and efficient power supplies on the market, which is why it tops the checklist of recommended PSUs at SilentPCReview.
I opened the opposite side of the case to gain access to the PSU cage from both sides, installed the PSU in the cage, and threaded the power cables up through the opening in the middle.
If you have cats, like we do, you have curious cat helpers. However, cat helpers aren't all that... helpful.
Now install the backplate included with the motherboard. Every backplate is different because every motherboard is different. It is held in by pressure; just snap it in firmly around the edges.
It's finally time to place the motherboard in the case. Clear room in the case compartment by moving any errant cables out of the way in which and stowing them. Make sure the screw holes on the motherboard line up with the pre-installed screw mount standoffs in the case. In our P182, everything matched up perfectly out of the box.
Angle the motherboard down slowly and line up the ports to the backplate,
Windows 7 Pro Product Key, then gently permit the motherboard down to rest against the standoffs. Loosely line up the motherboard screw holes to the motherboard standoffs.
Find the packet of screws included with the case, and use the appropriate screws to secure the motherboard to the case standoffs.
Now let's connect the power supply to the motherboard. There are two power connectors on modern motherboards, so be sure you've connected them both. Don't worry, the connectors are keyed; you can't install them incorrectly and blow up your Pc. As you can see here, I threaded the power connectors along the back side of the motherboard platform. That is one of the numerous nifty little design features of the P182 case.
Before we can boot up, we will need to connect the power and reset switches so they work. This aspect is often a little fiddly. Find the cable with the labelled power, reset, and LED connectors from the case, then refer to the motherboard manual to see where the appropriate motherboard front panel connector pins are.
Connect each front panel wire to the specific motherboard front panel pins individually. Make sure you connect them to the right location,
Office 2007 Product Key, but orientation of these connectors doesn't matter. This is where the needlenose pliers come in handy unless you have nimble (and tiny) fingers. Why this isn't really a universally standard keyed block connector by now is beyond me.
We want some kind of video output to see if our computer can boot,
Microsoft Office 2010 Home And Business, so let's install a video card. Scott's not a ################ gamer, so I went for one thing midrange, a set of two NVIDIA 8600GTS cards. They're an excellent blend of performance and the latest DX10 and high-definition features, even though using relatively little power.
Don't forget to connect the 6-pin video card power connector if your video card requires it! This can be a common mistake that I've made a lot more than once. Our power supply has modular connectors, so I snapped in one of the two 6-pin power connectors and threaded it up to the video card.
We're ready for the moment of truth: does it boot? I attached a power cord to the power supply, hooked up a utility 15" LCD I keep around for testing, and then pressed the power button.
Success! I know "reboot and select proper boot device" doesn't look like much, but it means everything is working. We've just built a minimal Personal computer that boots up. It's a small step that we'll construct on tomorrow.
Getting this method from a pile of parts to bootable state took about two hours. Like I promised -- effortless! Writing it up is taking almost as long as actually doing it. This was a slow construct for me due to the fact I was extra cautious with Scott's parts, and I was stopping to get frequent pictures. With some practice, it can be possible to construct a Computer much more quickly-- even in under ten minutes.