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Jewelry ads gleam in context of fashion staple
TIFFANY & CO.,louboutin c est moi shoes, CARTIER and Bulgari may be the top labels in luxury jewels, yet a new generation of high-end diamond and jewelry brands is seeking the spotlight.
A important force for alteration is the world’s guiding diamond dealer, Diamond Trading Co. (formerly De Beers), which in recent years has been urging dealers to enhance their own diamond brands instead of remedying the gems as commodities.
Upscale women are responding to the greater array of branded alternatives and are starting to purchase luxury jewelry extra as fashion accessories than as rare, special-occasion purchases.
“Women who have greater fiscal means are responding to the wider array of choices in luxury jewelry, and they’re starting to buy their own jewelry to express themselves,” says Jennifer Behre, partner publisher of Fairchild Publications’ W and W Jewelry, a controlled-circulation quarterly.
After a puny downturn in 2001, jewelry bargains have increased steadily to approach an estimated $45 billion today. Sales of mass-marketed jewelry are booming; Wal-Mart Stores is the nation’s largest seller of diamonds and gold.
But sales by the high end-where the typical jewelry cache buy averages $2,500-are growing, propelled by new influences including the increased emphasis on brands.
“The campaign of diamond marketers and jewelry designers creating their own distinct, national brands is still in its infancy,” says Dan Kisch, publisher of Instore, a every month commerce magazine launched in 2001 targeting high-end jewelry brand marketers and retailers. “We believe this sector of the jewelry industry is balanced for major growth over the next ten-year.”
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Jewelry represents the fastest-growing ad category because numerous luxury magazines including Conde Nast Publications’ Vogue and Hearst Magazines’ Town & Country.
At Town & Country, jewelry now accounts for 38% of all advertising, says VP-Publisher Jim Taylor. “Diamond marketers are working to teach consumers, setting their stones separately from others by the look, the hack, the color and the charts,” he says.
Many industry observers say an of the biggest influences in the new high-end jewelry branding movement is David Yurman, a designer that in five years has convert one of the most premonitory luxury jewelry advertisers in the U.S.
“For many years, the focus in jewelry advertising was on the chip itself,” says Tom Florio, VP-publisher of Vogue. “Then David Yurman came according, and he had colossal success putting jewelry advertising within the environment of fashion in a quite dramatic and another course. Now, others absence apt follow him.”
The David Yurman look is “an viewpoint of authenticity and loosened luxury … the mind that whichever female tin make [the designer's] look her own,” says David Lipman, chairman of the Manhattan agent that bears his name, which has handled the 25-year-old Yurman brand since it began its big ad push in 1999.
Sold via retailers national, as well as via its own stores, David Yurman namely a massive publish advertiser in newspapers and fashion magazines, aided by outdoor, direct send and retailer co-op print ads.
In the final 2 years, many diamond brands namely not proclaimed directly to clients have dramatically additional their ad spending, manufacture spectators say.
Kwiat, a 100-year-old diamond marketer, fired its first-ever consumer-targeted movement 5 years ago, and immediately spends one estimated $8 million annually in citizen and local print and radio advertising. This fall, Kwiat kicks off its first-ever “Red Carpet Tour” of 20 cities, showing off diamonds worn at celebrities aboard the ruddy blanket in Hollywood.
“Maintaining exclusive distribution through definite retailers, and promoting our brand through local outlets including radio, our sales have increased by double digits,” says Bill Gould, Kwiat’s VP-marketing. Toth Brand Imaging, Concord, Mass.,Miu Miu Shoes, built Kwiat’s campaign, themed “Simply gorgeous.” Kerwin Communications, Caldwell, N.J., handles media purchasing.
Diamond brands that have forever maintained temperate ad programs are emotion the oppression of accentuated diamond advertising, say industry insiders, and are increasing their advertising in rejoinder.
Lazare Kaplan International, a well-established diamond marketer, this year trod up its schooling programs for jewelry store personnel and thrust print advertising, says Marcee Feinberg, VP-marketing. The brand’s long-running theme, “My Lazare diamond,” is handled by AgencySacks, New York.
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PEARLS MAKE COMEBACK
Pearls, which are making a comeback this year, are also driving a fresh wave of branding efforts.
Tiffany afterward month opens the 1st channel of a fashionable retail department, called Iridesse, devoted exclusively to pearls. Plans cry for a total of 20 outlets within the next five years. David Yurman is likewise attempting a current line of pearl jewelry this year.
Mikimoto & Co., the longtime leader in luxury pearls, this year has reacted to the emulation by reviving a previous print ad theme line, “The originator of cultured pearls since 1893,” says Robert Artelt, senior VP-marketing and retail for the Tokyo-based corporation.
AgencySacks handles Mikimoto. Kerwin Communications handles media buying for Mikimoto as well as Kwiat.
Suddenly, jewelry designers, who toiled in relating obscurity, are cornering up in mainstream magazine columns, and are being touted for inferior celebrities in jewelers’ promotional matter,christian louboutin pump, ads and Web sites.
“For the longest time, jewelry wasn’t characterized on our covers,” says Vogue’s Mr. Florio, “but beginning this year, it has been a very important unit.”
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