New Jersey Dining | Edison: A Hong Kong-Style Cantonese Restaurant in N.J. — Review

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The first, on a Sunday evening visit in which we were surrounded by empty tables, was a superb fish dish called Fish Two Ways. The second was a virtuoso performance by both the kitchen and service staffs during Saturday dim sum brunch, <a href="http://www.womenfashionbag.com/marc-jacobs-handbag-embossing-leather-off-white-p-19148.html"><strong>handbags by marc jacobs</strong></a> with prospective diners packed as tightly as the ill-fated fish in the tanks nearby, and an endless parade of trolleys and trays, all laden with dishes that invited prolonged discussion. (A promised wait of 20 minutes became 7, however, once we agreed to share a table.) Wonder Seafood, which opened in Edison in 2003, is the fourth restaurant project of Tommy Chiu, who said in a telephone interview after my visits that he had six silent partners. His previous restaurants, in New York City and Connecticut, have since been sold. The service is prompt and professional, though the language barrier is considerable. On more than one occasion, our server had to flag down another member of the staff, who was then able to respond to our questions. On the evening visit, we were confronted by a sizable menu that would have taken multiple visits to fully explore, but, fortified by a small bowl of roasted peanuts, we moved forward. The scallion pancake was a beautiful, layered, almost flaky affair, sturdy and filling. The dumplings &mdash; four per metal mini-steamer &mdash; were just as lovely, and delicious, and were a major factor motivating us to return for dim sum. As for the dinner entrees, saut&eacute;ed pea greens were overcooked, rendering them a little darker and less flavorful than the ideal version of this seasonal delicacy. The pork version of pepper steak &mdash; a special on the board that night &mdash; was forgettable. The aforementioned fish (another special), however, was wildly delicious. On one side of the platter, lined with thin slices of cucumber, was a pile of ethereally battered pieces of salt-and-pepper grouper, deep-fried to a light and golden crunch on the outside, yet hot and juicy inside. These golden bites were tossed with slivers of hot pepper that balanced and cut any residual cooking fat. On the other side of the platter was a blend of succulent flounder pieces, stir-fried with snow peas, a few thin discs of carrot, and bias-cut celery, all laid over a judicious <a href="http://www.branddiscountonline.com/burberry-nylon-shopper-in-red-p-19331.html"><strong>burberry military watch</strong></a> portion of cellophane noodles. As for the dim sum, of the 60 selections that Mr. Chiu said were available, we were limited by time and appetite to 20. Our three tablemates, sisters who say they frequently meet at Wonder Seafood for this meal, helped us identify some of them. Table favorites included thick and satisfying squares of savory, pan-fried taro cake; pan-fried dumplings stuffed with chives and tender shrimp; roast pork buns with shiny brown tops; a tangle of crisp-tender Chinese broccoli; meltingly tender tripe with ginger and scallions, a sleeper hit; sticky rice with Chinese sausage, pork and black mushrooms, wrapped in a lotus leaf that added its gentle fragrance to each bite; green pepper with ground fish and shrimp; succulent eggplant stuffed with shrimp and fish paste; an ephemeral sponge cake, and sesame rolls stuffed with red bean paste. The puffed chicken feet were nicely fried and flavored with hot oil, garlic and a few fermented black beans, but there was no disguising the essential ingredient of the dish. Nor was there any attempt to dress up the spare ribs by surface browning; they arrived in their steamer pan, fatty and pale and off-putting. But no matter. With 40 more dishes to try in the dim sum category, and Mr. Chiu&rsquo;s recommendation of blackfish, from the tank, for next time, there are plenty of reasons to return to Wonder Seafood. Wonder Seafood Restaurant 1984 Route 27 Edison (732) 287-6328 WORTH IT THE SPACE Utilitarian dining room, with up to 125 seats, beyond the fish tanks that line the vestibule. The restaurant is on one level, with clear, navigable pathways. THE CROWD Noisy and casual; efficient servers; many children. THE BAR Bring your own wine or beer. THE BILL Lunch with soup, entree and rice, 6 to 6.50. Dinner main dishes, mostly 10 to 18, with a couple in the 30 range and sea cucumber and abalone dishes around 40. MasterCard, Visa and American Express cards accepted. WHAT WE LIKED Scallion pancakes, shrimp dumplings, Fish Two Ways, pan-fried taro, chive and shrimp dumplings, roast pork buns, Chinese broccoli, sticky rice and mushrooms in lotus leaf, tripe with scallions and ginger, green peppers with ground fish and shrimp, eggplant stuffed with shrimp and fish paste, sponge cake, sesame roll with red bean paste. IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner and <a href="http://www.womenfashionbag.com/monogram-canvas-montorgueil-gm-p-18716.html"><strong>lv mens shoes</strong></a> dim sum menu available daily until 10 p.m. Dim sum cart service Saturday, Sunday and holidays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Parking next to the building. Reservations accepted for evenings. RATINGS Don&rsquo;t Miss, Worth It, O.K., Don&rsquo;t Bother.