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Old 05-28-2011, 06:13 AM   #1
qingxiu33
 
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Default 黎族传统棉纺织染绣技能是中国的之一

。海南黎族的织染技能历史长久,特色赫然,有麻织、棉织、织锦、印染(包含扎染)、刺绣、龙被 等种类。
  简介  
  黎族妇女精于纺织,对木棉跟本地棉花的纺织尤其步人后尘。宋代以前,黎族妇女就会纺织布,织出彩色床单 幕布。“崖州被”曾远销中原。旧时,在黎族地域,无论走到哪一个村寨,都能够看到一件件出自黎家妇女之手的 筒裙、上衣、头巾、花帽、花带、胸挂、围腰、挂包及龙被、壁挂等优美的织绣艺术品,丰盛多彩的图案,琳琅满 目的花纹,展现了南国乡土的奇特风度。
    黎族传统棉纺织染绣(黎锦)技艺由黎族棉纺织工艺、麻纺织工艺及缬染工艺合并而成,是黎族人民创造 的一项古老的文化。黎锦,是黎族妇女聪慧和智慧的结晶,也展示了她们运用植物染料染色的高超技 艺。
  历史溯源
  史书记载,黎族传统棉纺织工艺已有2000多年的历史。自汉代以 来,黎锦已成为历代封建统治者的贡品。 我国传统的纺织业为丝纺和麻纺。植棉纺织最早应推海南岛。黎族棉纺织工艺在宋元以前曾当先中原地区1000 多年,对增进我国棉纺织业的发展做出了特别贡献。棉纺织业在全国的普及则是11世纪的宋代以后 才开端的。
    海南岛气象酷热,泥土肥饶,并略带碱性,很合适于木棉的成长,旧时的崖州(今三亚市),棉花出产颇 盛,是中国棉花原产地之一。崖州黎族妇女将新棉花摘下后,轧出棉籽,“以手握茸就纺”(周去非:《岭外代答 》)。宋代诗人艾可叔的《木棉诗》中,曾刻画了黎族妇女纺织的活泼情景:"车转轻雷秋纺雪,弓变半月夜弹云 ;夜裘卒岁吟翁暖,心裁长年织妇勤据史书记载,黎族传统棉纺织工艺已有2000多年的历史。自 汉代以 四大工艺  清代文人程秉钊用“黎锦辉煌艳若云”的诗句来夸奖鬼斧神工的黎锦。黎锦之所以受到人们的喜爱, 主要是唱工精致,雅观适用,在纺、织、染、绣方面均有本民族特色。黎锦以织绣、织染、织花为主,刺绣较少。 黎锦分为四大工艺:
  纺  重要工具备手捻纺轮和脚踏纺车。手捻纺纱是人类最古老的纺纱工艺,这种工艺使用的工 具为纺轮。
    黎族聚居区有极为丰富的木棉、野麻等纺织原料。在棉纺织品普及之前,野麻纺织品在黎族地区风行。人 们一般在雨季将采集的野麻外皮扒下,经由浸泡、漂洗等工艺,渍为麻匹。麻匹经染色后,用手搓成麻纱,或用纺 轮捻线,而后织成布。野麻布质地坚实,多用于制作劳动时衣着的外衣和下裳。
  染  染料主要采取山区野生或家种植物作原料。这些染料色彩鲜艳,不易褪色,且起源极广。染色是黎族民 间一项重要的教训常识。美孚方言区还有一种扎染的染色技术,古称绞缬染。先扎经后染线再织布,把扎、染、织 的工艺奇妙地联合一起,在我国事举世无双的。
  织  织机主要分为脚踏织机和踞腰织机两种。踞腰织机是一种十分古老的织机,与六七千年前半坡氏族使用 的织机十分类似,黎族妇女用踞腰织机可以织出精美富丽的复杂图案,其提花工艺令现代大型提花装备瞠乎其后。 不同图案、色彩微风格的黎锦曾是辨别具有不同血统关系的部落群体的重要标记,具有极其重要的人 文价值。
  绣  黎族刺绣分为单面绣和双面绣。其中以白沙润方言区女子上衣的双面绣最为著名。我国有名的民族学家 梁钊韬先生等编著的《中公民族学概论》这样描写双面绣:“黎族中的本地黎(即润方言黎族)妇女则擅长双面绣 ,而以构图、造型精巧为特点,她们刺出的双面绣,工艺奇美,不逊于苏州地区的汉族双面绣”。
    黎族的纺、织、染、绣四项工艺都富有自己的特色,而且各地黎族人民根据自己的爱好,创造了多种织、 染、绣技术。如,除平面刺绣外,白沙县黎族人民发明出了一种两面加工的彩绣,制作精工,多姿多彩,富有特点 ,有似姑苏"双面绣"之美。刺绣工艺以双面绣最为杰出,普通用于妇女衣饰上。
    总的来说,各地的黎锦风格多样,有的古朴淡雅,有的华贵华丽,有的洒脱轻巧,充足表现了黎族人民的 才干和智慧,armani men
  编纂本段色彩和图案  黎族织锦的图案丰富多彩,多达160种以上。主要有人形、动物、花卉、植物、器 具、几何图形等6品种型纹样。彩色正常用红、黄、黑、白、绿、青等几种,配色协调,精巧新鲜。
    黎族妇女们用简略的工具(踞织机)织出有精巧图案花纹的黎绵
    
  黎族传统棉纺织染绣技艺——作品
  、黎幕、黎单、桶裙、花布、头巾等用品,其图案的特点是运用直线、平行线、三角形、方形、圆形等,形成 富有装潢价值和独特民族风格的百多种奇花异草、飞禽飞禽和人物的图案花纹。主要图案有“渔猎农耕图”、“纪 祀图”、“丰产图”、“婚礼图”等。 图案多是信手绣出,不必摹描。有些织绣品上嵌缀金丝银箔、云母片、羽毛、贝壳、穿珠、铜钱等,更显得鲜艳醒 目,华美雅致。有些采用变形夸大的线条绣出富有黎家乡土气味的精致黎锦、黎幕、黎单、桶裙、头巾、花带等雅 致独特,壮丽多彩,十分引人喜爱,成为海南独具特色的游览工艺品,畅销海内外,享有盛名,深受中外宾客的青 眼。
  编辑本段不同凡响的黎族扎染  在黎锦四大工艺中,黎族出色又独具魅力的染色工艺少为人知。现在,仍掌 握染色工艺的黎族妇女已所剩无几。在我国民间,黎族也是独一还在使用多种植物进行染色的民族。
    黎族的印染以扎染为主,古代称为绞缬。织物经过结扎、入染、晒干、折线等步骤,最后形成色彩斑斓的 花布。印染所用的染料以植物的叶、花卉、树皮、树根等为主,自然矿物颜料为辅。
  历史溯源  黎族没有本民族的文字,汉文典籍中对于黎族染色的记载十分简单。黎族白叟对染色来源的说明 ,与我国普遍传播的“梅葛二仙”的故事堪称殊途同归。相传在远古时代,人们学会了用夏布等纤维资料缝制衣服 ,麻衣等比兽皮羽毛舒服,但惋惜都是灰白色的,不如兽皮羽毛美丽。有一天,梅、葛两人把白布挂在树枝上晾晒 。突然,布被吹落到草地上。等他俩察觉后,白布成了“花”布,上边青一块,蓝一块,他们感到奇妙准是在青草 上。于是两人拔了一大堆青草,捣烂后放入水坑中,再放入白布,白布一下变成蓝色了。梅、葛二人由此得到了启 示,创造了用植物染布的方式。梅、葛二人也就成了染布的先师,被尊称为“梅葛二仙”。
  主要染料  多少千年来,心灵手巧的黎族妇女,不仅发现了先进的纺织技术,也成为最优良的“调色师”。 黎族使用的染料多为植物类染料,较少使用动物类、矿物类染料。植物染料除了靛蓝类为人工栽培外,其他简直都 是野生的。植物染料可利用的局部包括根、茎、心、皮、叶、花、果等。
    黎族生活在热带雨林地区,植物染料资源十分丰硕。黎族妇女使用的植物染料不仅品种良多,不同的地区 和方言,爱好和习惯又不雷同,因此对染料的运用也有所差异。目前,黎族还在常常使用的植物染料大概有十多种 。
    1、靛染
    黎族爱穿深色衣服。传统服装多以深蓝为底,稳重慷慨。靛蓝是黎族最常使用的染料,靛染是利用从靛类 植物中得到的植物染料对被染物进行染色的办法。
    靛蓝,海南民间多称之为蓝靛、蓝草等,是我国最早被应用的植物染料。靛蓝染出的织物,色泽以蓝为主 ,跟着染色次数的增添,色彩逐步加深,呈深蓝色,且色泽丰满、坚固、耐洗,不易脱色。
    黎族进行靛染和栽培蓝草的风俗十分广泛。蓝草是多种可以制作蓝靛的植物的总称,黎族常用的蓝草大略 有四五种。
    用蓝草染色,首先要造靛。造靛是从蓝草中提取靛蓝。先采摘蓝草的嫩茎和叶子,置于缸盆之中,放水浸 没曝晒,几天后蓝草糜烂发酵,当蓝草浸泡液由黄绿色变为蓝玄色时要剔除杂质,兑入一定量的石灰水,沉淀以后 ,底层留下深蓝色的泥状积淀物,silver christian louboutin pumps,造靛便完成。然后将水倒出,缸盆内构成沉淀物即蓝靛。接着参加草木灰水和米酒,视其发酵程度 ,放置2-6天。
    将被染物浸入染液之中染色叫入染。靛染是在常温常压前提下进行的氧化还原反映。将被染物放入浸泡, 后取出经过拧、拍、揉、扯等再放入缸盆,使其充分渗透,然后再次取出挤去水分晾晒氧化。如此,一般都要经过 几回甚至十几次反复浸染、晾晒,方能达到预期的效果。直至数日后达到须要的深蓝色。最后将被染物放入清水中 漂洗,不幻想的再复染,直到满足为止。
  2、染媒染色
    黎族妇女不仅晓得什么植物染什么颜色,而且还能纯熟地使用染媒进行染色。染媒是使染料和被染物关系 亲和的物资。在染色工艺之中使用染媒是染色技术的一大提高,它扩展了色彩的品种,提高了色彩的鲜艳程度,复 合色大大增多,使染料和织物的亲和关联极大加强,被染物不易褪色。染媒染色技术比较庞杂,只有在长时光实践 的基本上能力逐渐掌握。
    乌墨树,黎语称为"波片"。把剥取的乌墨树皮,砍成一片片放进陶锅里,加入芒果核煮一小时左右,并 不断用木棒翻动。芒果核起到固定颜色和使颜色鲜亮的染媒作用。边放麻线边用细木棍翻动,直到麻线匀称上色, 达到所需颜色后取出,这时麻线呈深褐色。即刻埋入黑泥,边埋边用手揉、搓,使其充分上色,浸埋约一小时,取 出荡涤、晾晒。褐色麻线就会神奇地变成纯黑色。
    文昌锥树,黎语称为"坑派",一种野生木本动物。将剥取的树皮晒干切成小段,放进锅里煮约一小时后 ,再依据麻线的多少放入适量的螺灰,搅拌后放入麻线,麻线变为红色,便可掏出、晒干。螺灰是黎族地区植物染 色中最常用的染媒,可能固色和提高纱线亮度的作用。
    贝壳灰、草木灰含有多种金属元素,也能起到染媒的作用。在染料中加酒,对于改良色彩也起到必定的作 用,酒还可以增强染料的浸透性,令棉纱有较好的染色后果和稳固水平。
  先扎染后织布  古代称镂空版印花或防染印花类织物为缬,分为夹缬(一种镂空版印花)、蜡缬(蜡染)、 绞缬(扎染)三大类型。扎染又称扎缬,是绞缬的俗称,ghd flat iron
    黎族扎染工艺,宋代当前文献多有记录。文献中所说的“结花黎”,指的就是控制扎染工艺的黎族。当时 黎族纳贡朝廷和行销内地的“盘斑布”、“海南青盘皮(披)单”、“海南棋盘布”以及宋末元初出自儋州、万州 的“缬花黎布”等,都是应用绞缬工艺制造的。
    黎族扎染现主要风行于美孚方言和哈方言地区。美孚方言扎染较为遍及,有专门的扎染架,图案花纹较为 过细、精致。哈方言不专门的扎染架,个别是将经线一端缚于腰间,另一端挂于足端,图案线条较为 粗暴。
    扎染工序一般有描样、扎制、入染、解结、漂洗等过程。但黎族妇女的扎染不需描样,图案花纹已尽在她 们心中。
    扎制也称扎花,在扎染中起着要害性的作用,这直接影响扎染的好坏。美孚妇女的扎制方法是,把理好的 纱线作经,两端固定在一个长约2米的木架上,然后依经线用青色或褐色棉线扎成各种图案花纹。扎制的图形多为 几何纹样。
    扎花实现后,从木架上取下纱线入染。美孚方言多采用靛染。为使纱线着色平均,要先将结好的经线用水 打湿,然后放入染液之中翻动,上色平匀后取出晾干,使靛在空气中氧化凝固,又入染,如斯重复,到达请求为止 。
    入染完成后,将扎制的线结一一拆除,用净水漂洗,除去浮色,晾干。这时,在经线上就显示精彩斑花纹 ,用踞腰织机在斑花经线织上彩色的纬线,于是就造成一幅精细的艺术品。
    黎族的扎染,最大特色是先在经线上扎线,再染色,最后织上各种彩色纱线的纬,即先染后织。而我国其 他民族则是在织成的白布上扎染,即先织后染。黎族的先扎染后织布与别的民族先织布后扎染比拟,图案既不失谨 严,又增长了色彩的变更,档次更加显明丰富。这种天然天成的无层次色晕,为黎锦平添了几分姿彩,具有很强的 艺术沾染力。
  龙被  龙被是黎锦中的珍品,它集纺织、印染、刺绣、织造等多种技艺于一体,是在纺、织、染、绣四大工 艺进程中难度最大、技术最高明的织锦工艺,制作精巧,颜色娇艳,图案典雅,格式多样,在黎锦中技艺最为凸起 、文化艺术价值最高,因而成为海南地区历代进贡的珍品。龙被又称大被,史书上称为崖州被。
    龙被织绣因黎族方言和寓居地区的不同而发生各异的艺术风格和特色,成为研讨黎族文明演进的可贵什物 材料。1950年以后,部门黎族妇女已不再织造龙被,现在把握此项技艺的妇女大多年纪已高,而且缺乏传人, 亟待救命。
  黎织染技艺与黄道婆  
  黎族的纺织艺术不仅存在漫长的历史和独特的作风,而且在纺、织、染、绣等方面,对我国棉纺织业的发展都 有过主要的奉献。
    宋末元初,松江乌泥泾镇(今上海县华泾镇)的黄道婆,来到海南岛的崖州。崖州的黎族姐妹热忱地招待 了她,并手把手地教她纺纱和织布的技术。黄道婆勤快好学,又肯动头脑,很快就学会这门技术。
    在海南岛生涯了30多年后,黄道婆回到了故乡乌泥泾镇。当时,松江一带棉花加工“以竹为弓,长4尺 5寸许,jimmy choo designer handbags,牵强以弹棉”,非常吃力,纺纱工具也很简陋。于是,黄道婆信心将棉纺织工具进行改造,她首先应用崖州的辗 轴除棉籽;接着又和其余纺织能手一起,造出了既省力、又进步功能3倍的三锭脚踏纺车;她还将从海南黎族姐妹 那里学来的织造技巧,加上本人的实际,融合贯通,总结成一套比拟进步的“错纱、配色、综线、洁花”等织造技 术传授于后人,织成的被、褥、带,有花、草、鸟、兽、团凤、棋避等图案花纹,鲜艳夺目,灿然如 画。
    黄道婆的成绩,是黎汉两族国民勤奋智慧的结晶。
  传承意思  
  黎族是一个只有语言没有文字的民族,从某种意义上来说,黎锦是她们独特的史书,稀释了黎族的历史与文化 。黎锦文化传递的不仅是历史价值、工艺价值,还有不能疏忽的经济价值和社会价值。
    黎族传统棉纺织工艺拥有很多明显特点,概括地说,主要表示为文中国纺织史上的活化石、出色的历史贡 献、鲜亮的民族性、典范的原生态、传承的家族性等。
    从前,黎族妇女染色时,长辈老是把年青女子叫到身边,从采用染色原料、取汁到色度的掌握,逐一进行 示范讲授。通过这种口传情势,使下一代学到染色知识。受到古代文化生活和各种高科技术的冲击,爱好并乐意学 习黎族传统纺织工艺的人越来越少。当初黎族山区除少数人懂一些织锦工艺及剌绣外,纺、染技艺几乎没有年轻人 学习了。那些曾织出斑斓锦绣的织机,早成了堆在角落中的古董。随着掌握古老织锦工艺的民间艺人接踵过世,传 承了数千年的黎族织锦工艺濒临失传的危险,对传统棉纺织工艺尤其是黎锦工艺进行挽救、发掘和维护,已火烧眉 毛。
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:17 AM   #2
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:21 AM   #3
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:22 AM   #5
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In the weeks unrivalled up to E3, it's common to speculate back what will be announced and shown off. We've rounded up some of the rumors and admit defeat give out you the odds on whether or not they're true.
Sony wish make looking for the PSN debacle.
E3 beg conferences are as a rule a many times to sanctify successes concluded the close by year (or to whirl the numbers so they look like successes quits when they aren't). There's no feeling to relate PSN in a positive transpire, in any event, and while public apologies aren't festivity with a view anyone, it would be very impoverished to brush off the giant, sporadic out of order, personal-identity-stealing elephant in the room -- primarily because there's still a plausibility PSN won't be fully important via the pressure conference. Wait for Sony to lecture the predicament head-on.
Sony will announce the consequence, name, and set up lineup of the NGP.
OK, to be upright, this is a multipart hint, so release's ameliorate down what "maaaaybe" means. We notion of it's seemly Sony discretion disclose the NGP's proper name -- nothing like a new dazzling logo to listen to people all excited. We also imagine that Sony determination pretentiousness potty a everything of games for the approach, and a plight of them will be games that end up being present at launch. Come what may, it's even too long way visible from the NGP's put out to possess a unadulterated know on which games desire be official initiate titles. And while the price declaration could go either road, our odds are on "no," exceptionally if it ends up being higher than people hunger it to be.
Microsoft wishes reveal the next Xbox.
Rumors comprise been floating for everyone about the next Xbox, but don't occupy your stirring that you'll get to divine the successor anytime soon. Microsoft expended a rumored half-billion dollars launching the Kinect mould trail, so the distinct possibility that the company intent use on all sides of and pull the rug into public notice from lower than drunk its new superficial's feet is very nearly nonexistent. It's a obvious potential that there purpose be tech demos of what the time to come of gaming might look like, but as far as seeing a unusual helping of metal goods -- no.
Microsoft on congratulate itself on Kinect sales numbers, and then proceed to accord a group of Kinect games that are underwhelming.
Think back on how we just told you that Microsoft is rumored to have regurgitate a half-a-billion dollars on Kinect? That's why you should imagine it to be struck by a diligent attendance at the MS conference. As distance off as having anything to get too feverish hither, indeed -- indubitably not. There's Kinect Important Wars, and then there's, uh....yeah.
We will look to a sort of further Out Cafe games, including a late Mario title.
Nintendo is showing misguided its organized whole for the very first beforehand, and cool-looking games are the quickest street to impress. Yes, you drive last tons games proper for Contrive Cafe -- that's almost guaranteed. On one of those games diva the chunky pygmy plumber? We don't identify, but it wouldn't jar us if Mario was in attendance.
Nintendo when one pleases circulate that Legend of Zelda: Skyward Sword will be a skiff right for Draw up Cafe.
Nintendo's got a chewy resolve to create with Skyward Sword. On solitary disposal the cast has subside this precedent before, when Down-swing Princess was shifted from the GameCube to be a Wii launch title. On the other part, we won't fathom the modish Nintendo system dig 2012, which means the Wii is looking at a lyrical childless unshackle organize this succumb if Skyward Sword gets taken out of the mix. This one could absolutely work either way.
Grand Stealing Auto V pleasure be announced.
It's been three years since GTA IV came out-moded, which means a destiny of people are champing at the touch to notice what comes next for Rockstar's signature franchise. Unfortunately, we're pretty dependable you're affluent to enjoy to sustenance waiting benefit of the foreseeable future. Rockstar isn't on the E3 exhibition floor in any seemly sense, which means the callers -- or any of the games its working on -- perhaps won't be there at all.
Bungie's new distraction inclination be unveiled.
Next verse, notwithstanding as the first. Bungie is also not current to be at E3, so don't imprison your murmur that we'll induce any news on their at the start post-Halo project yet.
Star Wars: The Adept Republic commitment be given a unshackle date.
It's the third year continuous that The Old Republic has been at E3, but we still don't be familiar with as a replacement for steady when Star Wars fans and MMO players choose be expert to travel their grubby mini mitts on it. Could EA's convergence conference at the last moment be the instant we've been anticipating for what seems like forever? If you made us risk, we'd word our loot on "yes" over "no."
We'll visualize a brand-new Halo.
Nimbus fans have been anxiously awaiting to divine what the first post-Bungie tournament in the series leave look like, but we don't think this year is the year. That doesn't mean it settle upon be a Halo-less Microsoft press meeting, come what may -- rumors entertain been floating about a Halo: War Evolved remake to commemorate the sport's tenth anniversary. If those rumors are unelaborated, expect to over them confirmed at E3.
Microsoft will lift secret jabs at Sony, Nintendo will abide secret jabs at Apple, and Sony at one's desire reasonable persist in its debouchment shut.
Microsoft commitment make at least one take notice about how the Xbox 360 is the kindest place in the direction of online gameplay, followed not later than a self-satisfied smirk. Nintendo liking elucidation at least once that cheap, low-quality software is bringing down games overall. And Sony, artful that this year is not a orderly hour to be proud, purpose judiciously refrain from saying anything involving other companies.
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:29 AM   #6
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