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Old 04-22-2011, 02:07 PM   #1
5ywen009
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Default 1/2-in. holes randomly cut into the sides

Better Yard Drainage: Drain the Water
Installing Dry Well


Here's how we solved our water problem.
Our situation is a low spot in the back yard. The only practical place to drain the puddle was along the garage and then into a downward-sloping hill toward the front yard. Instead of draining all the water to the front yard, however,在她心中, we decided to install a dry well, which is merely a holding tank for a large water runoff. After a rain, it slowly drains itself (percolates) into the surrounding soil. We also connected a 4-in. perforated drain tube (Photo 8) to the side of the dry well to help drain off and percolate overflow water. This tube rests on a bed of 3 to 4 in. of crushed rock or small river stone and slopes downhill (minimum 1/8 in. per foot) from the dry well. A sock sleeve made of a rot-resistant fabric (Photo 7) is slid over the tube to filter out any small grains of soil that would otherwise eventually collect in and clog the tube.
Where the tube passes by the downspout from the gutter,tods, we installed a Y-fitting and drained the roof water from the gutter system directly into the main drainage line. That line eventually emptied into the low spot in the back yard. Once all the parts of the drainage system were installed,dre beats, we covered the tubes with several inches of rock. We then covered the rock with landscape filter fabric (black fabric that does the same thing as the sock) and finally tamped the soil to the surrounding grade over the rock and fabric. This meant digging, and lots of it! There's no magic number for the depth of your trench. Just figure that you'll need at least 3 in. of gravel under the 4-in. tube,Polo Ralph Lauren pas cher, 3 in. on top of the tube and about 6 in. of soil over that. Also, figure in whatever slope you need to get to the low spot.
Connect The Drain Tube
The dry well we used has a capacity of nearly 30 gallons. This unit (see Buyer's Guide, p. 72) can also be stacked on top of or alongside another if you need extra holding capacity. The dry well is very strong, and once you bury it, you can drive your car over it without breaking it. In fact,tods shoes, the dry well can be installed under a driveway. The drain inlet at the top (Photos 5 and 8) is optional. You can also choose to: (1) drain water directly into the side port of the unit from a run of perforated or unperforated drain tubing,beats by dre, (2) link two or more dry well units together, or (3) use it independently with a top drain for small pooling areas.
Buying Everything For This Job
You can purchase snap-together tube in 10-ft. lengths as we did or buy a 50-ft. roll, which is difficult to transport. You'll find the tube is available in either perforated (1/2-in. holes randomly cut into the sides) or unperforated. Choose a perforated tube if you'd like it to drain as it carries water. However, if you only want the tube to deliver water from one spot to another, buy unperforated tubing and don't use a sock. The sock (Photo 7) is typically sold in 100-ft. lengths. You can also buy a wide assortment of fittings to connect lines, as well as a fitting to attach to your downspout. We spent about $200 for our drainage parts and another $150 for 2 cu. yds. (54 cu. ft.) of crushed rock delivered to our driveway.
Before going to the home center, make sure you've got a good shovel, a string line and level, and a solid wheelbarrow. If you don't want a wheelbarrow hanging around your yard for the next 20 years,“沟沟沟---, you can rent one for about $10 per day.





Knock out the drainage ports in the sides of the dry well. First score around the "knock-out hole" with a utility knife, then strike it with a hammer.




Assemble the dry well once the perforations are knocked out of the sides. Next, screw the top of the dry well to the side walls with the 2-in. stainless steel screws.




Lower the dry well into the hole after wrapping the sides with a special silt-blocking landscape fabric. To tuck the fabric under the dry well top cover, loosen the screws,Polo Ralph Lauren, push an inch of fabric under the cover, then retighten the screws. Once it's lowered into place, insert the top drain fitting and make sure it's level with the surrounding soil.











Call Before You Dig


As with any yard project that requires digging,我心想“还好我们的门前还是亮的……嘻……”那晚练完琴, you must find where buried electrical, telephone and TV cables and gas piping are located.
Call your local utilities. Some areas have one telephone number to call to send out someone to mark all the utility lines. The location of underground cables and pipe may influence the routing of your drainage plan. You may want to consider an alternate route or have the utility disconnected until the job is completed.
Now that you're familiar with the basic parts, follow our step-by-step photos. Ideally,tods men, they'll inspire and guide you as you plan your own system.
If you push paper for a living, invest in heavy work gloves and pain relief tablets.
Note: When you backfill your trench, you'll have a lot of extra dirt. Keep a little on hand for settling and think about where else you might use it. You may need to rent a trash container or schedule a truck to pick up the excess.
Buyer's Guide
You can find the Flowell dry well, landscape fabric and top drain at most home centers. If the dry well isn't available, call Flowell Systems at (800) 356-9935 to find a dealer in your area.



Measure the depth of your trench using a line level. Pound a stake in near the house to use as a reference point. Tie the string exactly level to each stake and measure the depth. You'll need to increase the depth as you get farther from the well. Adjust the gravel at the base of the trench as needed.



Slip the fabric sock over the tubes, leaving a few inches at each end to overlap the adjacent section of tubing. The fabric filters out small particles of soil to prevent the tube from eventually clogging with sludge.



Check the drainage tubing with a 4-ft. level to make sure you have at least 1/8 in. of slope per foot of tubing (1/2 in. every 4 ft.). Adjust the gravel base as needed. Overlap the sock ends after you connect them.



Snap the downspout tube into the main drain line. Use a Y-fitting to make the connection. Slip the sock over the connection. Once the tubing is in place, cover it with at least 3 in. of gravel. Cover the gravel with landscape fabric and spread topsoil over the trench.



Screw a drain cover over the end of the tubing as it approaches daylight to keep critters out. To prevent erosion, make a rock bed around the end of the tube.
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