Citizen| 生命中不能承受的牛仔之贵
 

生命中不能承受的牛仔之贵
一夜之间,牛仔裤的生产商们都造反了.在东方广场,一条卡尔文.克莱恩(Calvin Klein)的直桶水洗要1400元人民币;一条做旧版的Diesel将近2000元;还有那什么都生产却样样都不是最好的Paul Smith,一条布满补丁的设计师仔裤,过季五折之后卖到1200,却被我当拣到宝一般迅速入货了.嗯,简 直就是助纣为虐,十八般兵器别的你不练,偏偏喜欢练"贱"hh
不知道从什么时候开始,牛仔裤开始贵得离谱的.1997年,还记得在东四的走私货小店里,见到第一条传说中 的LEVIrS501,讨价还价许久,700块买到手,穿上身,无数次偷偷地在厕所小便之后摆弄那不同一般 仔裤拉链的五粒铜纽扣.这条神"牛"一直被我穿了5年,直到左腿的右边右腿的左边被磨破了为止.在我的印象 里,牛仔裤始终就是耐穿耐用实惠的代名词,什么时候,它也开始无法无天起来了呢?
凡事都得有个开始吧,找了许久,才发现这个把牛仔引向奢华不归路的同学是有着"奥地利剪刀手"之称的Hel mut Lang.这个长相酷似中国导演张元的蓬头,在上世纪九十年代率先带来了超过200美元的牛仔裤,而且也是 这厮率先玩起了做旧、水洗、低腰等等概念.不过这也不也不能完全怪他,原本他也是视金钱如粪土的时装界艺术 青年,在自己的"梁山"上优哉游哉地做着山大王,无奈终究抵御不了顶级奢侈品集团Prada的一纸招安文书 的诱惑,下了山,跟着他们一起练起"吸金大法".但是,说实话我还是要感谢Helmut Lang的,lebron lebron,他令人称道的低腰概念,watches free,成全了无数如我一样大肚腩(低腰最早是因为胖男人的肚腩大,所以只能放低腰可以让他们能束上裤子).据说 ,Helmut Lang这个品牌最赚钱的时候,一半收入来自牛仔裤在全球七百多家店铺的销售,可是后来Prada取消了制 造Helmut Lang牛仔裤的那家公司的商标使用权,将全力扑在了做高档包包,鞋子和开设弹眼落睛的旗舰店上,走那些奢 侈品牌的传统路线,结果成为导致Helmut Lang销售业绩大跌的主要原因,进一步导致后来和Helmut Lang的分道扬镳.可怜的Helmut Lang没有得到善终,近年的时尚界已经少见他的身影,令人扼腕不已.
不过,为什么牛仔裤贵到如此程度还是有那么多人趋之若鹜呢?想想原因也简单,那些大学生们之所以可以不惜血 本地把Rock & Republic、Citizen as Humanity、Diesel、Dsquared 这些极品贵牛搬回家,就是因为它们的利用率高,算下来牛仔裤每穿一次的成本总是要比西装、礼服之类的低很多 ,Gift Card,这就是那些牛仔裤厂商屡屡下得了黑手的原因.
就算买到天价,大不了可以穿上十年,而且牛仔这个东西就像老男人,越老越有味道,甚至有民间传说:牛仔裤天 天穿,连穿六到八个月,会有一种奇怪的好闻的香气.对于这个偏方,我心悠然向往之,倒真的想要以身试法一下 ,然后把这条真人磨合的香裤子到ebay上去拍个千元高价.只是不知道到了这条"神牛"变成一条散发着你的 体味,宛如你第二张皮肤的时候,你还舍得买吗?

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